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Posted by ミリタリーブログ  at 

2012年06月12日

Dura Coat Finishes

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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 09:00DIYs

2012年06月05日

P90 Disassembly

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The following photos are step by step disassembly of the Tokyo Marui P90. By far this is the easiest AEG to takedown, it only to remove two screws and everything is disassembled, excluding the gearbox of course which involves another part of an AEG disassembly.


The disassemble P90



The P90



Of course, first remove the magazine



Push this button inwards and then slide the front assembly out as shown below



Slide in this direction



Turn the inner barrel assembly clockwise until the small nub fits into the slot...



...this nub, then slide the assembly out.



Now to take the gearbox out, Remove the stock plate by pushing and sliding as shown in the photo above



Now remove these two screws that hold the retaining plate



Slide out the retaining plate



After removing the retaining plate, the gearbox should slide out easily. If there is a little bit of resistance try to wriggle it out gently



And now you have fully disassembly a P90. This should also be the same with all P90 AEGs out there, most of them are vlones of Tokyo Marui.


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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:20DIYs

2012年05月30日

MP5K Disassembly


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Here is another step by step post on how to diassemble the Tokyo Marui MP5K.





We are going to turn this MP5K into the one pictured above.



Remove this pin by pushing the nubs inward so you can pull it out on the other side.



Now pull out the front grip which also serve as a handguard. Inside you can see the fuse and the connector to the battery.



Now also remove these two pins that holds the back plate.



After removing the back plate, carefully pull out the two wires that connects the gearbox to the upper receiver.



Now using a small phillips screwdrver remove this screw to pull out the selecter switch on the left and pull it out on the right.


I forgot to take photo, but the next step is to remove the pin above the magazine catch, this pin holds the lower and upper receiver together.



Now turn it upside down and remove these two screws under the grip to gain access to the motor.



After removing the screws, the grip plate should come off easily. There is also a metal disc, this is very important to your gun. This disc serves as a motor tension when adjusting the meshing of the motor's pinion gear to the bevel gear.



Then remove the two wires that connects the motors.



Remove the motor and remove these two screws inside the grip.



Once all the screws are removed, you can pull the lower receiver out.


Then remove the gearbox carefully.



And there you have, you should have all the parts as shown above.



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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2012年05月28日

H&K UMP Gearbox ver. 3

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Following are photos of a Version 3 gearbox from a UMP smg.


Showing the gearbox after pulling it from the lower receiver.



Showing the internals as they are in positioned inside the gearbox.



Highlighting the gears, sector, spur and bevel gears.



Showing the cylinder, piston, spring and tappet plate how they are assembled together.



And this is the gearbox placed in the lower receiver of an HK UMP. The version 3 gearbox is also compatible with the MP5 and AK series.


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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2012年05月23日

M4A1 AEG Disassembly

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Following is photographic step-by-step disassembly of a standard M4 AEG. This is not the new recoil shock series.





This is a Tokyo Marui M4A1 rifle with upgraded metal body, so the beginning of disassembly is different from the stock plastic receiver.



First remove the lower handguard by pulling the delta ring backwards and pulling the lower handguard downwards.



Then turn over (no need to remove) the fuse assembly and disconnect the two wires connecting to the fusebox.



Now remove these two pins that holds the receivers in place. You can use an allen wrench and a small hammer if it's a little tight.



After removing the pins, start sliding the upper receiver forward, but not all the way.



This charging latch will catch on the gearbox as shown. So you need to pull the charging handle and slightly push it upwards to disengage it from the gearbox. Then you can slide the upper receiver all the way out.



Now that we have the upper receiver out, it is time to remove the gearbox. Please do not lose the bolt catch paddle, although the gun will work without it, it still adds a little realism to your gun.



Now remove the butt stock by pulling the stock lever as shown and then slide it outwards.



Now remove this screw (using allen wrench) which holds the buffer tube endcap.



Then using a phillips screwdriver remove the long screw that holds the buffer tube into the lower receiver.



And pull it out as shown.



Now to remove the motor, remove these two screws under the grip.



Once the screws are removed the grip cover will come out. Be careful not to lose the round metal plate. This is needed for the motor tension adjustment for proper meshing of gears.



Then disconnect the two wires from the motor (take note of the position of the motor and wires so you will have a guide in putting them back). Then you can pull out the motor at this point.



Then remove the two screws that holds the grip to the receiver.



Then pull out the grip from the receiver.



Remove this pin.



And use a screwdriver to remove the magazine catch latch.



And you are done, you have totally disasembled an M4 AEG.



It is just a matter of retracing back the steps to reassemble the whole gun.



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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2012年05月15日

Gearbox Reassembly


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Reassembling a gearbox could be hard for some especially those who are new to airsoft. I am posting a step-by-step reassembly process with tips on how to make it easier.




Opened gearbox


Parts that are totally removed


First step is to place the gears as shown above.


Then place the cylinder together with the tappet plate, cylinder head and nozzle, attach the spring at this point


Then place the trigger, sometimes this will not stay in place, try to use some grease to keep it in place.


Then insert the piston carefully not to dislodge the tappet plate.


The place the anti-reversal latch, sometime this won't stay stay in place the bevel gear



Now, using a screwdriver inside the spring guide, push the spring guide and the spring in place.


Now replace the cover carefully not dislodging all the spring things inside.


Install in the lower receiver


Put back the grip and the motor.


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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:16DIYs

2012年04月20日

TM Scar Gearbox Disassembly

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Following are step by step photos of how to disassemble your Tokyo Marui Scar gearbox. This is the second part, the first part is the takedown which is blogged here:

http://echigoyaworks.militaryblog.jp/e289188.html

The gearbox shown here.


First we need to remove the recoil assembly. First we need to remove these 3 screws to remove the fornt part of the recoil assembly.


After removing, slide recoil guide out and then remove the recoil block on top of the gearbox as shown in the direction.


Now to open the gearbox, remove these 4 screws using a torx driver.


After removing them, there is still one more screw hidden. First pull the wires out and rotate the wire cover as shown.


Now you have access to this screw which is holding the bolt-stop assembly, remove it. Make sure to remember how it was installed.



Then this is the last screw that holds the gearbox together.


And it is done, gearbox revealed as shown.



Reassembly tips.

This notch on the recoil guide will held by the screw that goes in here.


Reassemble first the left side of the recoil guide to put it back in place before inserting the recoil guide.


Then insert the two recoil springs and the buffer in the back.



And that's it. If you have questions send me an email.



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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:24DIYs

2012年04月17日

Trigger Switch Replacement


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Just a couple of photos when I replaced the ordinary switch assembly with another switch assembly with mosfet.



Closeup




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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:16DIYs

2012年04月05日

DIY: BlackHawk M16A3


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Black Hawk Down fans out there. Here is a simple DIY guide on how to convert your Tokyo Marui Sopmod/CQB-R to M16A3

Note: During the conversion you will need some tools and basic machining skills, if you don't have a lathe and milling machine a dremmel tool and alike will also do the job.

Base gun-Tokyo Marui Next Generation M4A1 CQB-R.


Step 1: Remove the butt stock, remove buffer tube out from the frame.


*It looks like this when all the small bits,wire and tube cap are removed.


Step 2: Remove this part. (see image to follow)


*It looks like this after machining.


Step 3: Reduce buffer tube thread from 19mm+- to 12mm+-



*It should look like this after machining.


Step 4: Grab any AEG m16 fixed butt stock and remove all the screw and butt plate


Step 5: Use A chisel to remove this tube pipe stopper (see image to follow)



*Stopper is removed out from the shell


Step 6: Use a dremel to remove these parts ( with red marks)


*It looks like this after removing.


Step 7: Insert the buffer tube to the stock, use a dremel to make a 3.30mm gap/space this is where the steel ring going to sit in. (see image to follow, do it carefully)


Step 8: Remove these two sides. Do not remove the center part this will lock on the lower frame. It should be snug fit to the lower frame. do it carefuly (see image to follow)


*It looks like this after removing the two sides.


Step 9: Cut this steel plate, use a milling machine or metal grinder (see image to follow)


*it should look like this after


* This time you will need to replace the Tokyo Marui tube cap to ARS
CNC hard metal tube cap.This tube cap has a 5mm thread and you need a 5mm x 100mm long lock screw.


Step 10: Reinstall the buffer tube,steel ring , recoil unit, recoil spring, ARS tube cap,wire, mosfet, butt plate and lastly lock it with the long screw.


*It looks like this after





Step 11: For m16 front assembly, change the TM stock 10.5 inches outer barrel to Echigoya CNC one piece hard Steel 20 inches outer barrel



Put everything back and you're Done!!! M16A3 Black Hawk Down look alike!






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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:21DIYs

2012年03月27日

Magpul Type Ambidextrous Sling Installation

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This is a DIY on how to install The ARS ambidextrous sling attachment to the Tokyo Marui M4 Recoil Shock Series. I wish I had a guide like this when I did mine, because I ended up scratching the buffer tube, and installing it misaligned.



You will need few basic tools to do this
1. Philips screwdriver
2. Soldering iron (this is important if you want to do it properly)
3. Flat head screwdriver or a knife




First remove the buttstock by sliding it off the buffer tube. Then remove the three screws as shown.


Remove the wire cover and you will see the wires with the connector that contacts with the stock pipe battery plate.



Now using a soldering iron, you have to detach the connector assembly.


Shown here as the wires are disconnected (this is really important to do a good job, otherwise you will have trouble screwing back your buffer tube)


Remove the wire cover here.


Using a stockpipe wrench loosen the buffer tube ring until you can pull the wires off it.


Then do the same thing with the receiver backplate.


Now you are ready to unscrew the buffer tube.


After removing the buffer tube, you are now ready to replace the metal back plate with the ambidextrous sling attachment.


Now reattach the buffer tube slowly making sure that you don’t scratch the finish on the pipe.


Now insert the wires inside the sling attachment and the buffer tube ring.



From here, it’s just a matter of backtracking and putting everything back the way you disassembled you it.
Here’s how it look after attaching the magpul sling.








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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:20DIYs

2012年03月16日

MP7 Takedown

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We're going to disassemble like this...


...from this. Note that it's not necessary to remove the flash hider and side rails for this, mine were simply removed already. You'll need to remove the sights if they're in the way of the top rail screws.


Start by removing the stock. Pull both catches up and slide the stock out and free. Take the front set off too


Next take the top rail off. The screw above the selector is a dummy, don't remove it. The longest screw goes in front; keep this in mind when you reinstall the rail later.


Pop the charging handle return spring off using a small tool and set it aside...


Remove the charging handle retaining screw next. You may also remove the charging handle at this time


Now remove the body pin screws


And then push out the body pins


The end cap will be free now. Remove it and set it aside


Here's the inside view at this point. You can see the back of the gearbox


The next step is to remove the serial number plate. It just slides out


You may then remove the gearbox retainer shim. The gearbox will slip down a bit after this is removed


Look above the gearbox and note the semi-auto cutoff lever actuator arm and its connection to the semi-auto cutoff lever. You'll need to get this back correctly when reassembling the gun or you will not be able to switch to auto


Now pull the gearbox out of the back. You'll need to disconnect the wires first of course; they need to be fed through the slot in the top as you remove the gearbox


When putting the gearbox back in you'll need to use a small tool to pull the wires back up


Here's the gearbox. It really is very small


The inner barrel assembly can now be removed. It'll just slide out


Here's the hop up unit as viewed from the left side


and the bottom


and the right


and the top


and the back


Now is a good time to remove the 'bolt'. Slide it back as far as you can


Press down on the part towards the top


Here's another view. Pressing this down will allow it to come free of the track inside


It can then be pulled out the back


Here are all the rear set components


Now it's time to take out the selector lever, trigger, and bolt release so the switch assembly can be removed. Start by pushing out the bolt catch spring pin. Don't lose it! Pull the lever off and set is aside as well


Now pull out the lever very carefully, pay attention to the spring's position


You can see the hooked part catches the post in the lever and the straight part fits into a notch in the hole


Now push out the trigger pin. Don't force it; it's designed to go one way. If it feels tough try pushing from the other side. You can see in this pic the side that should come out first has grooves in it


With the pin removed the trigger is free. I was worried that the trigger would be a nightmare to get in and out but it's fairly easy


Just pull it forward and out. Pay attention to the spring as you do this so you have an idea how to get it back. It's basically the reverse of removing it


Next knock out the selector lever spring pin and remove the selector lever. Set it aside in a safe place along with the lever parts


Here's the left side of the body with the bolt release, trigger, and selector components removed


And here's the right side


These are all the components that were just removed


Looking in the back, the switch assembly can be seen. Carefully remove it from the gun using tools to poke at it from the front if need be. It's held in position by rails and can be tricky to get back in place. Just take your time and poke at it through available holes. You'll get it


Here's the right side of the switch assembly


And the left


Another look. You can see the battery connector in the front


The fuse is rated at 10A if you were curious. The gearbox must not be very demanding


Here you can see where the barrel goes though the assembly


Here are all the major internal components


Here they are as they would be inside the gun when assembled as viewed from the left side


and the right


This is the connection between the semi-auto cutoff lever actuator arm and the actual semi-auto cutoff lever that was mentioned earlier


Close up on the left side of the switch assembly


And the here's the right side


This is the bottom; you can see some of the trigger mechanism


Here you can see some more of the trigger mechanism


This is what the selector mechanism looks like on safe


This is semi. It's a small difference


On auto the selector plate pushes against the cutoff lever actuator arm which disengages the cutoff lever in the gearbox


Here's a look deep inside the gutted body. There are still a few bits in there but there's no need to remove them


And now more shallow look


A view from the front






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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2012年03月09日

VSR10 Gspec

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This my Tokyo Marui Gspec. This is full stock and shooting at 89m/s. I will show a step by step takedown and will also show you how to make it shoot at 96-98m/s just by changing the inner brass barrel with the PSS10 430 mm 6.03 barrel.



I will be installing the following:
PDI light bull barrel
PDI bull barrel cap
PDI barrel space
PSS10 6.03 tightbore barrel 430mm


First remove the dummy silencer (you dont have have to if you ample space). Then remove these two screws near the magazine well. after removing screws you can pull the upper assembly out in upward motion.


This is the mag catch assembly, be careful because they have a tendency to fly off and they are hard to find.


Showing the upper separated from the lower.


Now remove this screw.


And loosen these two screws, no need to remove. You just need to loosen them so you can unscrew the barrel from the barrel base.


After separating the barrel from the barrel base, you are now ready to remove the inner barrel assembly. First remove these two screws.


Also take out this screw to remove the hop-up lever.


Now we are ready to replace the TM brass barrel with the PSS10 barrel


First remove the 3 screws that holds the barrel (in green) and then the two screws (in red) to open the hop assembly


All disassembled as shown here. Just replace the barrel and reassemble it back.


Now to prepare the bull barrel, first we need to insert the barrel spacer inside the bull space. They are a little bit tight but I rubbed a few drops of silicon into the o-rings.


Then using the brass barrel I removed to push it into place


Now you are ready to insert the inner barrel assembly


Push it into place and make sure these two holes are aligned. It is where one of the screw goes. After aligning, you also need the put back the hopup lever.


As shown here you are ready to screw on the barrel into the barrel base


I suggest using a little bit of teflon tape


You can also remove the hop sticker into the new one


And install the bull barrel cap anywhere during the process


And from here it is just reverse reassembly and you have new look. In installing the 430mm PSS10 tightbore barrel you gain at least 7-9m/s. I already upgraded 3 gspec with just that barrel and it is always the case. I havent tried the pdi since I am already getting good results with the laylax PSS10.

Photos of the final look of my VSR will be posted after I out the finishing touches. I am planning to paint it and I will also post the process here so keep posted.





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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2012年01月16日

EG30000 Motor for AK-G36 Mod

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In this post we will show the process we did in the conversion of the TM EG30000 motor to a short type motor since TM have no short version of this type of motor.

This is the EG30000 for mod


Removing the pinion gear


Marking the length together with the stock TM short type motor


Cutting using the grinder



Shortened pinion rod


Polishing the rugged cut postio of the rod


And then just install the pinion gear back on.

Finished product... comparison in the photo on top of this post.




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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:30DIYs

2012年01月13日

Sopmod Semi-Auto Mod

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More photos one modding an airsoft gun to disable full auto firing. The same process with the Scar-H (as previously posted), just mod the selector plate and its done.


The process

First we used a heat gun for the thread lock to melt


Removing the screws on the buffer tube


Melting the solders on the battery contact assembly


Again using the heat gun for the buffer tube ring's thread lock


After that, removing the motor


Sliding the upper assembly to get into the motor


Removing the selector plate for modification


This is the Sopmod's selector plate. We will dremmel or shave off the part in red. This will prevent the cut-off lever from dis-engaging.


The dremmel process


Before and after (left to right)


Shown here in semi-auto mode, cut-off lever is in down position which means it is ready to cut the current after one cycle.


Shown here in full-auto mode. Cut-off lever stays in down position thereby no current cut-ff is still on and no full-auto.




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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2012年01月11日

Scar-H Takedown and Semi-Auto Mod

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This is the new Scar-h from Tokyo Marui. Is this post I will show you basic takedown of the Scar-h to get into the gearbox.
I will also show the simplest way to disable the full auto of the gun. (New Zealand law on airsoft is that all guns must only be on semi-auto), we are shipping this gun to New Zealand.



Takedown

First remove these two screws including the one in the middle


Then on the end of the rail remove this screw. You might need to remove the rear sight or just loosen it and slide it.


Then these two screws (both sides)


In removing the upper asembly just slide it towards the front


Then fold the buttstock...


...and remove these two screws


Separate the power connectors...


Unlike here it is still connected (my first time to open up a Scar)


Now just remove the motor M4 style


After removing the motor slide this pin out and then you can safely slide the gearbox out


Just showing the mechanism that makes this gun ambidextrous


Now takedown is done


Semi-Auto Modification

Our first thought of Semi-auto mod is to block the selector plate into going full auto. But our master techs showed us a way to do it without blocking the function the selector lever. it involves modding the selector plate to disable the cut-off lever into going full auto.

Here is the selector plate


We will remove the part in red...


...this part when pushed back (full-auto mode) will lift and disable the cutoff lever thereby the continuous flow of current and full auto


Dremmeling


Finished and installed. This mod will not only disable the full-auto but the player can still push the selector lever into full auto but still get semi-auto.










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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:20DIYs

2012年01月10日

VSR-10 Gspec Takedown and Upgrade

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This my Tokyo Marui Gspec. This is full stock and shooting at 89m/s. I will show a step by step takedown and will also show you how to make it shoot at 96-98m/s just by changing the inner brass barrel with the PSS10 430 mm 6.03 barrel.

I will be installing the following:
PDI light bull barrel
PDI bull barrel cap
PDI barrel space
PSS10 6.03 tightbore barrel 430mm


First remove the dummy silencer (you dont have have to if you ample space). Then remove these two screws near the magazine well. after removing screws you can pull the upper assembly out in upward motion.


This is the mag catch assembly, be careful because they have a tendency to fly off and they are hard to find.


Showing the upper separated from the lower.


Now remove this screw.


And loosen these two screws, no need to remove. You just need to loosen them so you can unscrew the barrel from the barrel base.


After separating the barrel from the barrel base, you are now ready to remove the inner barrel assembly. First remove these two screws.


Also take out this screw to remove the hop-up lever.


Now we are ready to replace the TM brass barrel with the PSS10 barrel


First remove the 3 screws that holds the barrel (in green) and then the two screws (in red) to open the hop assembly


All disassembled as shown here. Just replace the barrel and reassemble it back.


Now to prepare the bull barrel, first we need to insert the barrel spacer inside the bull space. They are a little bit tight but I rubbed a few drops of silicon into the o-rings.


Then using the brass barrel I removed to push it into place


Now you are ready to insert the inner barrel assembly


Push it into place and make sure these two holes are aligned. It is where one of the screw goes. After aligning, you also need the put back the hopup lever.


As shown here you are ready to screw on the barrel into the barrel base


I suggest using a little bit of teflon tape


You can also remove the hop sticker into the new one


And install the bull barrel cap anywhere during the process


And from here it is just reverse reassembly and you have new look. In installing the 430mm PSS10 tightbore barrel you gain at least 7-9m/s. I already upgraded 3 gspec with just that barrel and it is always the case. I havent tried the pdi since I am already getting good results with the laylax PSS10.

Photos of the final look of my VSR will be posted after I out the finishing touches. I am planning to paint it and I will also post the process here so keep posted.





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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:20DIYs

2012年01月05日

M4 Sopmod to M16


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Below are more photos during the conversion process of the Tokyo Marui M4 Sopmod into an M16. These photos shows some of the fittings in the process.








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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:20DIYs

2012年01月03日

Handgun Maintenance guide

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This is a small guide on how to get the best performance out of your handguns now they have been broken out of storage. (This is for airsoft gas guns, as opposed to the photo above.)


To completely overhaul your handguns you are going to need the following tools and materials.

Valve Key. (I use the one made by KSC as it is compatible for all gas magazines and will undo both the inlet valve and the release valve)
Philips and Flat head screwdriver.
Cleaning Rod. (With cleaning swabs)
Cotton Buds.
Other tools used for disassembling the hand gun.

100% pure Silicon oil (Not spray)
Silicon Spray
Cleaning spray (RC Car cleaner by Tamiya is recommended)
Air canister (Duster spray)
Handgun manual

Magazines:

One of the first things to fail on a GBB or NBB handgun is the magazine and these require a lot of maintenance, which is often overlooked by the operator.

The first thing you should do to maintain your magazines is never manually vent them. After a day of skirmishing, many people will press the release valve and vent all the gas from the magazine. This is a big non-no. Venting the gas does several things:

1/. Blows all the factory lubricant out of the magazine
2/. Causes freezing of the O-rings in the vent lips and release valves, which causes accelerated wear, and can also misalign or warp them breaking the seal.
3/. Can cause the inlet o-ring to rise up the shaft which causes the inlet valve to leak or fail all together.

By keeping an amount of gas in the magazine, it keeps the o-rings intact and forces oil into the microscopic gaps between o-ring and valve or magazine wall.

Now the first thing we are going to do is vent all the gas left in the hand gun, the best way to do this is to fire of the remaining gas also know as dry firing, or as we are going to completely overhaul the magazine you can manually vent it.

Once all the gas has been vented, you will use the valve key to undo the release valve and inlet valve. Be careful when inserting the key into the inlet valve as these are very delicate and can easily be deformed by being overly aggressive.

Picture of an inlet valve (upper left) and a release valve (lower right)



Once these are removed, put them to one side. Now we are going to break open the magazine. There are several different magazine designs and it will best to consult the manual to see where the magazine breaks down. The TM Glock range has a base plate while the Sig P226 will break in half. To remove the base plate or separate the two halves there is a Philips head screw located next to where the inlet valve is, once you have unscrewed this you will need to remove the washer and the o-ring.

You will also need to use a pin tap to remove the loading lips from the top of the magazine, be very careful not to hit the lips as any damage to them can render the whole magazine useless.

Be careful because when the base plate or magazine is separated the loading spring and plunger will release.

Now you’ll need to inspect all the o-rings to make sure they are intact, any damage means they will need replacing, damage may consist of nicks on the surface or fuzzing of the o-ring. Fuzzing, is where the o-ring looks like it has fur due to the outer surface becoming frayed.

(A word of advice on replacing o-rings, do not buy Airsoft specific o-rings, these can be bought at any hardware store. Tokyo Hands will also carry these and can be replaced with latex once for better seal.)

Another thing you might notice on the o-rings and the internal parts of the magazine is a white powdery substance, this will be evident in magazines that have been vented a lot of are old and have not been maintained over the years and needs to be cleaned out.

Using the duster, blast the magazine parts removing all the powdery white substance, any that is hard to remove use a lint free cloth with some silicon oil on it slowly rub away the powder or in hard to reach or fiddly areas use the cotton buds.

Now go through and remove all the o-rings from the valves and locking screws, I normally photograph the o-ring with the part so that I have a reference for when I go to reassemble the magazine.

Getting a zip lock bag, pour some of the 100% pure silicon oil into it, just enough to coat all the o-rings. Leave this to one side while you work on the rest of the magazine.

The next thing you will need to do is lubricate the vent valve, put a few drops on to the valve and manually open and close the valve, make sure that you also coat the screw threads as well as this will improve the air seal when you come to reassemble.

Next place a drop or silicon oil on the inlet valves inlet (the place where you fill it with gas) and using some HFC134a gas give the inlet valve a quick blast, just enough to blow the oil through the valve, but not to much as too blast it clear of the inlet valve. (An almost empty can of just propellant is perfect for this job)

Now using the same cloth that you used to wipe away the white powder, give the inside of the magazine a good wipe around. This should give the insides a slight micro coating of 100% silicon oil. Pay particular attention to where either base plate will sit or where the two halves join, as again this will give the magazine a better air seal.

Once this is done, you are now ready to reassemble the parts with the correct o-rings that have been left to soak in the silicon. I recommend that you don’t wipe of the excessive oil just put them on as they are.

Again, once this is done, you are now ready to reassemble the magazine. Make sure that all the o-rings are seated correctly.

You are almost done, the only thing left to do is fill up the magazine with gas. I would recommend HFC134a for this rather than any high power gases such as propane or CO2. Once you have filled the magazine I would recommend that you leave it for about 1 hour in a window. This will allow the magazine to heat up and the gases inside to expand helping to force the oil in to all the crooks and crannies and seating the o-rings perfectly.

Now here is the fun part! Load her up and blast away, remember that the excessive amounts of oil is going to vent out of the magazine coating the bbs, barrel, loading nozzle and pretty much everything else, but as the next part of this tutorial is about maintaining the gun itself wee don’t need to work about the oil.

Repeat this for all the magazines you have for the particular handgun you are maintaining.

I find it takes about five full magazines to get rid of all the extra oil.

The Handgun:

Now although there are many moving parts in your handgun these are actually the easiest out of the two to maintain. You will need to start by separating the slide from the receiver. If you are unsure how to do this consult your manual.

Once you have done this, put the receiver or lower frame to one side as all of the actual gas channelling parts are found in the slide.

Now you will need to disassemble the out and inner barrel from the slide, again if you are unsure how to do this consult your manual.

The first thing we are going to do is clean the inner barrel, I would recommend totally removing the inner barrel from the hop unit as this will prevent you getting any cleaning fluids on the hop rubber. (cleaning fluids is normally 100% alcohol or a chemical that can cause premature damage to the hop rubber)

Once the inner barrel has been removed from the hop chamber you can give it a good coating in cleaner, using the barrel cleaner to remove all the dirt, this might take several cleaning heads until no dirt is visible. Do not spray any lubricant in the barrel as you want this as dry and clear as possible.

Now you can give the hop rubber an inspection, again if there is any visible damage to the hop rubber you will need to replace it. Giving the hop rubber a soak in 100% silicon oil will rejuvenate it and extend the life of the rubber.

Make sure though that you wipe clear the inner surface of oil before installing, especially the area that makes contact with the BB as it passes through the unit. You are now ready to reassemble the hop unit and barrel.

Once this is done, you should now go over the out barrel cleaning any dirt or grit that might have built up over time. I would also recommend wiping down the outer barrel with a piece of cloth and small amount of silicon oil. This will allow the slide and the outer barrel to slide more easily when fired.

Now its time to work on the slide, this is a lot more fiddly than the barrel and you will need to be careful not lose the springs in the loading nozzle. Again consult your manual for directions.

Once you have broken down the slides internals you will need to look at the o-ring on the piston head, again replacing it if its damaged and soaking it in silicon oil, this time though you will need to wipe clear the excessive oil so that it is not blown through the loading nozzle and finally into the barrel.

Next thing you will need to do is give the loading nozzle a good clean as this is also prone to the white powder building up from excessive use. Follow the same instructions that I listed for cleaning the magazine. Once this is clean, you can use a finite amount of oil to lubricate the contact points of the loading nozzle.

One area to take note of is the springs, these might have become crushed or deformed and these are essential to the reliable workings of the handgun. If these need replacing then I would do it immediately.

Once you are happy with the job you can reassemble the internals and move over to the lower receiver/ frame.

The lower receiver/frame is the easiest part to maintain as this houses the trigger assembly and release catches and only requires lubrication. This is also probably the only place you want to use the spray.

Give all the working areas a slight coating of silicon and wipe away any excessive amounts that may build up.

Finally the rails, this is the main point of contact between the two halves and I would suggest giving these a good coat of 100% silicon oil, reassemble the two halves and manually cycle the gun to give a good coating over the whole surface area of the rails and wiping away any excessive oil.

Once this is done you are good to fire off a few rounds, remember that there maybe some oil build up or possibly some vented, so be ready to give the inner barrel a swab again.

Once you are happy with the performance you will want to readjust the hop unit and you are ready to go!

Final note:

For operators of custom handguns using High Flow valves and higher pressure gases I would recommend that after every 8-10 magazines passed through the gun that you place a drop of 100% silicon oil on the inlet valve before filling the magazine with gas. This will maintain the o-rings and slide internals for longer.

I would also recommend that you never manually vent your magazines leaving some gas inside the magazine to maintain a slight pressure. (by Fareast)




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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2012年01月02日

SURU Parts Production

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One of our machinists work in the production of SURU parts.







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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 09:00DIYs

2011年12月27日

Real PMAG Conversion to Airsoft Magazine

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Following is the step by step process on how we convert a real PMAG magazine to fit into an airsoft AEG specifically the recoil shock series. By using the internals of a Tokyo Marui magazine and months of trial and error we were able to accomplish the task… Mission Impossible? Not in our shop!

The Real PMag



Remove the bottom cap


Then you can discard the spring and the round follower, but keep these three parts, you will need them later on.


Mark where you will make the trims, good thing about the magpul there is a line that will help guide you. You will make the cuts a few mm above this line. Also take note where the trim will make and make a higher trim on it as shown where the masking tapes are.


Fisrt part cutting of the mag using a vertical machine.



Second part cutting.



Third part cutting (back side)....




To look like this (as shown already fitted with the TM internals)


Using a dremmel, try to flatten out the foremost part of internal ribs on the mag as shown (include the internal sides)



Now we go the TM Magazine internals

We need to turn it as shown below, from the right to the left. Using a vertical machine and a dremmel.


Trim the flaps as shown below (from the left to look like on the right


Trim the underside of the lip


To become like this


As shown fitted in the mag



Now trim the back part



Remove this protruding part (also on the front side - no pic)


Use a dremmel to trim the corners on this side (shown by the 2nd arrow) and also on the bottom. The purpose of this is to take the shape of the polygonal shape of the Pmag.


Now trim the bottom plate of the mag about 3-5 mm (this will depend on the fitting of the internals when you insert it)


Now start assembling everything.

From here, it will now be a trial and error fitting and testing.

This tutorial was made by our professional engineers and we will be not be responsible for damage to your equipement if you follow this tutorial.

Hope you make it, let us know if did it. If you have questions or discovered something to make this easier let us know.





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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2011年12月26日

Quality Gears


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One of the things that we try hard in doing is to make our customers happy, by making sure the products they buy in our store is of the best quality.

Here, we found out that one of the gears from our supplier have misaligned properties. So before selling our master tuners fixed the problems and it is ready to drop in your gearbox.

Comparing it and finding the fault


Fixing to make it right.







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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2011年12月23日

Spring Cutting


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You bought a gun and you found out it is over the legal limit, what would you do? One option is to buy a replacement spring or just cut the original spring by yourself.

Here is a guide on how to properly cut a spring without damaging your spring guide.

Check how much you want to remove, I suggest one coil at a time.


Using a cutter, cut your desired length


Showing the cut portion


Use this torch, or you can use one of those camping lighters with the blue torch


Using a pliers, hold the end of the spring together to flatten it and use the torch to heat it to shape.


Showing the flattened spring


Now use a grinder (or you can use a sandpaper)



Finish!


Repeat the whole process if it is still over the legal limit.


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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:15DIYs

2011年12月14日

Recce Conversion to M16 Buttstock

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Following are photo collage on how our master tuners disassemble and replace the buttstock of a Recce to accommodate an M16 buttstock.


Fitting the Buttstock




Organizing the original parts.



Modding the stock and the buffer tube.


Installing an extender for the buttstock attachment









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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2011年12月08日

Deanodizing with Monkey Dunk

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Here, we took an old rusted flash hider and gave it that burned battle weary flash hider with the used of a chemical called Monkey Dunk.

Here are the before photos:



Boling the flash hider in the solution


Checking the temperature with a laser gizmo thermometer checker


And after photos.




This chemical can also be used in cleaning up rust and other metal irregularities.

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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2011年12月07日

Magpul Type Ambidextrous Sling Installation

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This is a DIY on how to install an ambidextrous sling attachment to the Tokyo Marui M4 Recoil Shock Series. I wish I had a guide like this when I did mine, because I ended up scratching the buffer tube, and installing it misaligned.
You will need few basic tools to do this
1. Philips screwdriver
2. Soldering iron (this is important if you want to do it properly)
3. Flat head screwdriver or a knife




First remove the buttstock by sliding it off the buffer tube. Then remove the three screws as shown.


Remove the wire cover and you will see the wires with the connector that contacts with the stock pipe battery plate.



Now using a soldering iron, you have to detach the connector assembly.


Shown here as the wires are disconnected (this is really important to do a good job, otherwise you will have trouble screwing back your buffer tube)


Remove the wire cover here.


Using a stockpipe wrench loosen the buffer tube ring until you can pull the wires off it.


Then do the same thing with the receiver backplate.


Now you are ready to unscrew the buffer tube.


After removing the buffer tube, you are now ready to replace the metal back plate with the ambidextrous sling attachment.


Now reattach the buffer tube slowly making sure that you don’t scratch the finish on the pipe.


Now insert the wires inside the sling attachment and the buffer tube ring.



From here, it’s just a matter of backtracking and putting everything back the way you disassembled you it.
Here’s how it look after attaching the magpul sling.








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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 12:10DIYs

2011年12月05日

M4 Sopmod Custom by Anakchan

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Photographed above is the custom M4 Sopmod of Anakchan. In order to achieve that look involves a lot of mod and machining. One of the mods that were necessary to get that seamless rail to silencer look is the machining of the barrel.


Preparing the barrel onto the machine


Machining the barrel base


Cutting the barrel



Machining the shortened barrel for the thread


And the threading


And the look the he really wanted





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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 21:40DIYs

2011年12月05日

Hi-Capa 1911 series Barrel change

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In this blog, I will give a brief instruction on how to change the inner barrel of the Tokyo Marui Hi-CAPA series. The same procedure also applies to 1911 series except for the removal of the recoil guide.



First remove the upper assembly by pulling the slide back and align points 1 and 2. Then push the slide catch (marked a) from the right side.




Then push back the spring recoil guide until it is free from the upper slide, then just pull the whole assembly out. Then pull out the barrel assembly through the front of the slide.



Then pull the hop chamber assembly (with the inner barrel) from the outer barrel. This is a little tricky because there is a stopper in the hop chamber that keeps the hope from sliding out. You must turn the hop assembly a little bit to the right and then push back the outer barrel.



Once get the hop assembly out, take out the two screws and you will be able to remove the inner barrel and replace it.
Take note of the position of the hop mechanism on top, make sure it is in the right position when you put everything back.



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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 11:00DIYs

2011年12月03日

Barrett

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Tuning the 50 Caliber Barrett in our shop. this usually ensures that you get the best in what we sell.



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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 17:00DIYs

2011年12月01日

High Speed Gears

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In order to achieve high ROF, one of our master technicians used the vertical milling machine to shave off about 3-4 teeth to achieve about 30-40 rps.




Vertical Milling Machine


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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 20:00DIYs

2011年12月01日

Mini Valve Wrench

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Using our Vertical Machine Press, we reproduce these mini valve wrenches. This is comply with some countries laws in importing airsoft guns, that the valve should not be in the magazine and this is to ensure that the magazine is empty of gas.


Using a dremmel to smoothen the sharp edges.



Testing how it fits with the valves.


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Posted by echigoyaworks  at 11:00DIYs